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Conflict of roles?

Fertilize, mow, scarify, sod in, sod out? Lawn questions that make you furious. The end of lawn guesswork – The Büchner tips for tiptop turf:

"What else can I do for my lawn in the fall?"

By the end of September, you should once again provide your turf with a complete mineral fertilizer. Scarifying (before fertilizing) is also a good measure to make the turf fit for the fall and winter. Reduce watering (only when necessary and when wilting appears). Accumulating leaves in the fall you should read off, so that no foci of rot can develop. Damaged areas can still be repaired now with ready-made turf without any problems.


"When should I fertilize my lawn the second time?"

Around the middle of May you can carry out the second fertilization of the year. With about 30 – 50 g / sqm of a complete fertilizer with long-term effect, your turf will receive enough nutrients to get well through the summer. The turf should always be dry during the fertilization process, then water it in.

"How and when should I water my turf?"

Watering the turf should be done in the morning hours. You should water only at the time of wilting. Not a little every day, but rather 2 times a week intensively.


"Help, there are mushrooms in my turf!"

There is no need to worry. These mushrooms, they are so-called warm-hat mushrooms, are not poisonous and are harmless. Their appearance is yellow, brown-ochre to black, about 3-5 cm high, and they usually appear singly or in small groups. Control is not necessary, we observe natural processes here.

These fungi are caused by alternating heat and moisture near the soil. One-sided fertilization, organic matter not yet decomposed (e.g. by compost in the soil), potash and iron deficiency, wrong pH-value (optimal is: 5,8 – 6,8) as well as high watering promote fungal growth during warm summer and autumn days. After occurrence, the fungi should be mowed off and the turf neatly leveled. Redirect general turf care: Pay attention to balanced fertilization, reduce watering, avoid soil compaction and over-acidification.

"My turf has such brown spots".

Upon closer inspection, the patches appear to be more of a light brown, straw color with pinkish mycelium (fungal growth) showing. This is what is known as „red tip infestation.“

Infestation is possible almost all year round. However, the damage is rather minor and usually not damaging to the grass. Infestation is promoted by long-lasting moisture (rain, dew, fog, incorrect irrigation technique) and unbalanced, irregular nutrient supply – especially nitrogen deficiency.

The following measures can help prevent or treat infestations: Targeted fertilizer applications (long-term nitrogen), reduce turf thatch (dethatching), and adjust irrigation.


"Is my turf hibernating?"

In winter, the turf takes a rest. You should now, before the frost period, give the turf the last cut, if necessary (cutting height approx. 3-4 cm) and free it from cuttings and (!) leaves. Under wet leaves rotting processes can occur, which damage the grass. Do not walk or drive on the turf during hoarfrost and frost. The plant parts are injured and can hardly or not at all regenerate.

A potash fertilization still in winter and a timely nitrogen-emphasized spring fertilization help the turf to wake up again from winter and to grow vigorously.

A word of advice for the winter:

Please do not walk across frozen turfs. The blades break off, and at these breaking points your turf becomes susceptible to disease.


Often asked question in the period from late October to early November:

How long can you lay ready-made turf?

As long as there is no ground frost, ready-made turf can be laid without any problems. The turf will grow even at low temperatures. We produce ready-made turf on our areas probably until mid-December, weather permitting. After that, our turf is also allowed to hibernate.

According to our experience, we will start again in February of next year.

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